Since the drawers on this were beveled on every edge, I had to use some sort of moulding to create a "box" for my fluting aka dowels to set against.  Many of the examples I saw of these types of drawers/furniture were flat front drawers, so it took some brainstorming to figure out how to make it work.  I got a piece of ornamental moulding from a big box hardware store and used my mitre box and saw to cut it to the correct lengths.  I created "boxes" or "frames" with the chunky side of the moulding on the interior, so the dowels wouldn't be higher than the trim.

I actually made a lot of mistakes during this part.  Measure twice, cut once, anyone?  Well, angles give me fits and I kept cutting the wrong direction, so I wasted quite a bit.  I ended up using two pieces of 8' moulding for these two drawers.  I still wonder if I could've gotten by with one.  I used wood glue to attach, carefully fitting each together in the corners.  I taped it down well with painter's tape and left it to dry for a couple hours.

Once everything was secure and dry, I measured the distance between the moulding and cut the dowels to length.  Again, I used a hand saw, and cut them together in bunches by taping them in a row.  An extra set of hands makes this go much faster.  I did sand the cut ends so they were neat--or, if I cut them a *little* too long and needed to shave off a bit.  I attached each with wood glue and let them dry.

After the glue dried, I caulked any gaps in the moulding, along with gaps at the top and bottom of the dowels.  I did have a couple gaps in between the dowels that needed a little caulk, but it totally camouflaged it once it was painted.

I painted it Sherwin Williams Woodland Lichen--a medium to dark green, and finished it off with a couple coats of my favorite varnish--Liquitex.  It got a pair of gold knobs, and I absolutely love how it turned out and I'm definitely going to keep this nightstand a little longer.  Who knows if it will change again?!